What a battery costs depends on what your car actually takes, so we load test the one you have before quoting anything. Tyres work the same way. Send a photo of the battery label or the tyre sidewall on WhatsApp and a fixed number comes back, fitting and disposal included.
A battery is priced by the physical size and terminal layout your car takes, the type it needs, and the cold cranking amps on the label. A stop-start car cannot run plain flooded chemistry, so it lands in a different bracket to a car without it. That is why one figure cannot cover every car in the carpark, and why we would rather test yours than quote at you.
Tyres go by the size printed on your door sticker and the brand you settle on. Bargain-bin rubber looks fine in the rack and feels frightening at 90 km/h in the rain, so what we keep at the budget end still has to be stock we would put on our own cars. Our quote covers the tyre, the fitting, the balancing, a new valve and taking the old one away, and nothing new appears on the invoice afterwards. Old batteries and old tyres leave with us and get recycled properly.
Tyres and batteries both give you notice before they leave you standing. Pick the one you recognise and tell us on WhatsApp.
The starter drags for a second longer than it used to, the aircon blower sounds tired, and the dash lights dim as it turns over. Heat is what shortens batteries here, and the flat ones we see almost always belong to cars nobody ever tested. Catch it at the slow crank stage and you choose when it gets changed.
Get the battery tested → 02A balance weight has come off, a tyre has picked up a flat spot, or a rim caught a kerb hard enough to knock it out of true. It shows up at speed and settles again when you slow down, which is exactly why people learn to live with it. Each wheel goes on the Road Force balancer and you feel the difference on the way home.
Book a re-balance → 03Topped up on Monday, down again by Friday. A leak that slow is almost never where the driver assumes it is, which is why guessing at it gets expensive. Off comes the wheel and into the water tank it goes. Bubbles settle the argument in seconds, and only then does anyone mention a new tyre.
Find the leak →A car that will not start has three suspects and only one of them is the thing most people replace. The battery can genuinely be past it. The alternator can be failing to put charge back in, in which case a new battery flattens itself within the week. Or something on the car is drawing current overnight, which empties a perfectly healthy battery every few days. Sell a battery for the second or third case and the driver is back inside a fortnight, poorer and no better off.
So the tester comes out first. Resting voltage with the engine off, cranking voltage while it turns over, cold cranking amps measured under load against what the label on top claims, then alternator output read at idle and again at 2,000 rpm. Where a flat battery has already caught you once, we add a parasitic draw test to find whatever is eating it while the car sleeps.
You keep the printout, filed with your service record. Below 9.6V under draw, the battery has had it and we say so. Sitting at 12.6V and holding under load, it goes back in and you spend nothing. Our guide to battery types and what they cost covers flooded, EFB and AGM if you would rather read first, and what to do with a dead battery is the one to open if you are standing in a carpark right now.
They get bundled together at the counter, which is why drivers assume alignment is a bolt-on charge. It is not, and it is not automatic either. Balancing cures a vibration you feel through the wheel at speed. Alignment cures a car that pulls, or a tyre wearing away on one edge while the rest of it looks fine. New rubber on its own cures neither of those.
Balancing happens on every tyre we fit, on a Hunter Road Force machine, with the old weights stripped off and the hub and bead seat cleaned before the new ones go on to factory tolerance. Then a road test to confirm there is nothing left in it at speed. If you still feel something in the first 100 km, bring it back and the re-balance costs you nothing.
Alignment we read on a 4-wheel laser machine and hand you the toe, camber and caster figures printed next to your model’s spec. Sitting inside spec, we tell you that and charge nothing for looking. It is free with any set of four, because a check that only pays when it finds something is not really a check. The longer version lives in alignment against balancing.
A slow crank first thing, a shake at speed, or a tyre that keeps going down. You say it to the technician who will be working on the car, not a service advisor, and it changes the order we work in.
Resting voltage, cranking voltage, cold cranking amps under load, then alternator output at idle and at 2,000 rpm.
Inner, centre and outer edge on every tyre. The gaps between those three readings are what give away an alignment problem.
Cracks, bulges and impact damage checked, then the DOT code read off each tyre so you know how old the rubber is rather than how old it looks.
Pressures set to your manufacturer’s figure, spare included. Terminals, hold-down, tray and the alternator drive belt and tensioner all get eyes on them.
Tread readings, the battery printout and photos of anything flagged go into a written summary in plain English. Nothing gets replaced on a maybe.
Book a tyre and the battery still gets tested. Book a battery and the tread still gets measured. Your record says which tyres went on and when, so every visit picks up from what we already know rather than starting cold. It costs a few minutes and it is how people stop finding out the hard way.
Depth taken at the inner, centre and outer edge of every tyre rather than at one convenient spot, because the difference between those three is where alignment trouble shows itself. Sidewalls checked for cracks, bulges and impact damage. The wear pattern gets photographed, whether it is even, edged, worn down the centre or cupped. The DOT date code is read off every tyre and the age goes in your report, since rubber ages out even while the tread still measures healthy.
Every wheel measured on a Hunter Road Force balancer, old weights removed, hub and bead seat cleaned, new stick-on or clip weights placed to factory tolerance, then a road test at speed. Alignment read on a 4-wheel laser machine and compared with your model’s figures, with the printout in your hand before any adjustment is quoted. We only recommend an adjustment when a reading has actually gone out of spec.
Resting voltage, cranking voltage and cold cranking amps under load, with the tester printout filed in your record. Alternator output read at idle and at 2,000 rpm. Terminal corrosion, clamp tightness, the hold-down and the battery tray all inspected, along with the drive belt and tensioner that keep the alternator turning. A parasitic draw test gets added where a flat battery has already happened.
A hybrid or an EV still runs a 12V battery, and that is the one that wakes the car up. When it dies the car stays dead no matter how full the traction pack is, so we test and replace it like any other. Cars with stop-start are fussier about which type goes back in, and some want a step after fitting that a normal car does not, so tell us the model and we will confirm what yours needs. The high voltage traction battery stays a dealer level part and we leave it alone.
The line sits at whether a reading has gone under, and whether the car started behaving differently in the last month or so.
If you are in the second column, say so when you book your next service and we will measure while the wheels are off anyway. When only the front pair has gone, you buy the front pair. Nobody here is going to push a set of four at you when two will do. The one thing not worth waiting out is a battery that has already left you stuck once, because it rarely does it politely the second time. Our tyre and battery checks guide shows you what you can spot yourself in the carpark before you book anything.
Paya Lebar, Eunos, Ubi and Bedok account for a good share of the tyre and battery work here, so most drivers are not coming far. The same hands have been doing this work for about ten years.
It depends on what your car asks for rather than what you fancy. A stop-start car needs an EFB or AGM battery, because plain flooded chemistry will not survive the constant restart cycling and gives up inside a year, which makes the cheap one the expensive choice. A car without stop-start runs happily on a good flooded battery and gains nothing from a grade above that. What we will not do is talk you up to something your car has no use for.
Every three to four years is the honest range here. Heat is what shortens them, so a battery that would see out six years somewhere cooler gives up much sooner sitting in an open carpark off the ECP. Two years is where a test stops being optional. Drivers who skip that are the ones who end up standing next to a car that will not start. Rather than counting birthdays we test it at every service, and a two year old battery that tests weak gets changed before a four year old one that still reads strong.
On most stop-start cars, yes. The charging system keeps a running record of how tired the old battery had become and carries on charging to that same profile unless it is told a fresh one went in. Skip that step and the car quietly undercharges a healthy battery, shortens its life, and eventually hands you back the fault you thought you had paid to fix. Whether yours needs it comes down to the make and the system it runs, so send us the model when you message and we will tell you where your car stands.
We handle the 12V auxiliary battery, which is the one that runs your accessories and wakes the car up. The high voltage traction pack is a different animal, it is a dealer level part, and we do not touch it, so whatever warranty sits on it stays exactly where it is. If the traction battery is what is worrying you, our piece on hybrid battery replacement goes through what your options really are.
1.6 mm is the legal minimum and by then the tyre is finished. We would rather you changed at 2.5 mm, because wet grip falls away long before the legal limit arrives. Age counts as much as depth: a tyre over six years old is worth replacing whatever the tread reads, and a crack or a bulge in a sidewall means now rather than later. Most drivers here get 40,000 to 60,000 km out of a set, which is less than the brochure number.
It depends where the nail went in. A puncture in the main tread area can usually be repaired. One in the sidewall or the shoulder cannot, because that part of a tyre flexes on every rotation and no repair holds there for long, so the tyre gets replaced. Bring the wheel in and we will tell you which of the two you are looking at before anything else happens. Driving any real distance on a flat is what turns a repairable puncture into a new tyre, so get off the road early.
Not automatically. If the old tyres wore evenly across the tread, the alignment was doing its job and new rubber will not change that. If one edge has gone, or you have met a kerb or a pothole since the last set went on, then yes. Because the check is free with any set of four and you see the readings yourself, you are not taking anybody’s word for whether it was needed.
Every 10,000 km, or every other oil service if that is easier to remember. On most cars here the front pair wears faster than the rear, and rotating evens that out so all four run down together instead of two at a time. It is included free when you buy a set of four from us.
Yes, as long as it is decent stock and we have agreed on it beforehand. We quote labour only in that case. What we cannot do is carry the warranty on a part we did not supply, so if the tyre turns out to be old stock or damaged in transit, that one sits with whoever sold it to you.
Yes. Message us on WhatsApp with a rough time and drive in. The test takes a few minutes with the engine off and then running, you get the reading, and if it passes you leave without buying anything. Most people do it while they are already down for something else, but there is no rule that says you have to be.
No. Singapore’s competition regulator, the CCCS, has told authorised dealers to drop warranty terms that force you to service only at their own workshops, so you can service or repair at any qualified workshop during the warranty period, provided the parts used are of equivalent quality and the work is documented. We do both, and the written report you leave with is that documentation. There is more in our piece on your servicing rights in Singapore.
PayNow, bank transfer and cash. We do not take credit card, because the fee ends up buried in the price and we would rather keep the quote clean. Receipts get emailed to you.
Full general servicing at recommended intervals. Plain-English report every visit.
Learn more →Pads and rotors measured in millimetres, calipers and fluid tested, photos before the quote.
Learn more →Knocking over humps, a floaty ride or uneven tyre wear. Checked on the lift and on a road test.
Learn more →Cooling coil inspection, refrigerant pressure and air handling. Cold air, the right way.
Learn more →Sensors, relays and ECU faults. We trace them end to end with live data.
Learn more →Diagnostics, repairs and overhauls. We trace the real fault before quoting major work.
Learn more →Buying used? You get the verdict before you commit.
Learn more →24/7 islandwide towing for breakdowns and accidents. Direct line to a real driver.
Learn more →
Flooded, EFB or AGM, when the new one has to be registered, and when not to replace it at all.
Confirm it is really the battery, jump start it in the right order, then find what killed it.
Tread depth, sidewall condition and battery health, all checkable in your own carpark.
Alignment fixes pulling and edge wear. Balancing fixes vibration at speed. Telling them apart.
When alignment genuinely protects a new set, and when you can skip it without regret.
How to tell a real diagnosis from a lazy one, and when the right move is to spend nothing.
Why an independent workshop can fit your tyres and battery without touching your warranty.