Paintjob & Body Works · Kaki Bukit · Singapore

Paintjob and Body Works,
matched to spec,
panel by panel.

Kerb scrape, supermarket dent, faded panel or post-accident damage?
We strip, prep, panel-beat, paint-match to your factory code, and bake.
You see every step, every layer, every photo before paint goes on.

~10 yrs
In the trade
★ Top-rated
on Google Reviews
Colour match
To factory paint code

Why it matters

Bad bodywork shows up six months later

A cheap respray hides itself for a season, then peels at the door edge. A skipped prep step bubbles into rust where you never look. A panel “fixed” by pulling instead of replacing carries the load wrong in the next bump. Most paintjob and bodywork problems are not visible on the day you collect the car. We work the way good paint and metal need: strip, fix, match, bake, photograph every step.

A small dent ignored, then rust through the panel

Once the paint cracks at the dent edge, water gets behind the panel and rust starts. By the time it shows on the outside, the inside is already gone. Catching it early is a panel beat and respray. Catching it late is a panel replacement.

Cheap respray that flakes within months

Old paint not stripped properly. Primer skipped or rushed. Clearcoat sprayed too thin. The panel looks fine on collection day, then fades, peels at the edges or shows orange-peel texture in the next dry spell.

Mismatched paint code, panel stands out in daylight

Workshop guessed the colour by eye, or used a generic code instead of your factory code with the right tinter blend. In the showroom light it looks fine. In afternoon sun next to the rest of the car, the panel jumps out.

Insurance shortcut leaves the frame misaligned

Some shops pull the panel back to where it looks straight, then paint over it. The frame stays out of true. Tyre wears wrong on one side. The car tracks left under braking. Proper accident bodywork measures the chassis first, then panels.

What we do

A proper paintjob, in plain English

Six stages, every job. Every paintjob and body works booking finishes with a photo log of each stage so you can see exactly what was done to your car, and why.

Damage assessment

  • Panel-by-panel walk-around with you, not behind closed doors
  • Dent depth, crease severity and paint crack inspection
  • Frame and chassis check on accident jobs (length, square, ride height)
  • Photographs of every flagged area with your reference
  • Honest call on repair vs replace, with reasons

Paint code and colour match

  • Factory paint code read from your VIN plate
  • Spectrophotometer reading on your existing panel for the actual fade
  • Tinter blend mixed in-house, sprayed onto a test card first
  • Match verified in daylight before any panel paint
  • Two-stage and three-stage pearl finishes supported

Panel beating and prep

  • Hammer-and-dolly work on dents that can be saved
  • Panel replacement when a beat is the wrong call
  • Sanding back to bare metal where rust is showing
  • Anti-corrosion primer on bare metal before any filler
  • Filler applied thin, in stages, never as a shortcut

Spray booth and bake

  • Downdraft booth with filtered air, not an open bay
  • Basecoat, then clearcoat, applied in proper coats
  • Heat-cure cycle so paint hardens fully before polish
  • Booth and gun cleaned between every car, no cross-contamination
  • Edges and shutlines masked, never overspray on adjacent panels

Reassembly and alignment

  • Trim, badges and clips refitted with new fasteners where needed
  • Panel gaps measured against the original side after fit
  • Doors, bonnet and boot opened and closed for shutline check
  • Headlights and tail-light alignment verified after a panel swap
  • Wheel alignment offered when chassis work was involved

Final QC and photo log

  • Polish and machine compound to lift the surface gloss
  • Wash, decontamination and final visual inspection in daylight
  • Before and after photos for your records
  • Plain-English summary, not bodyshop jargon
  • Paint warranty terms written on the invoice, no surprises

How we differ

The Right Workshop vs an authorised dealer

Both will paint and panel-beat your car. The way the colour is matched, the prep is done, and the work is documented is not the same. Here is how the two compare on the things that matter when you book a paintjob or bodywork repair.

What you get The Right Workshop Authorised dealer
Paint code matching Factory code plus spectrophotometer reading on your panel, mixed and tested on a card before any spray. Factory code only. Faded panel match left to the painter eye.
Prep depth Sanded back where needed, primer on bare metal, filler in thin stages with photos at each step. Standard package prep. You do not see what was done under the paint.
Panel beating quality Hammer-and-dolly first, replace only when a beat is the wrong call. We tell you which and why. Often replace by default to keep turnaround predictable, even on saveable panels.
Panel alignment and shutlines Measured against the original side, doors and bonnet cycled before sign-off. Eyeballed to “looks straight.” Shutline gaps not always rechecked.
Clearcoat curing Heat-cured in a downdraft booth so the paint hardens fully before polish and delivery. Booth time tied to package slot. Some jobs cured shorter to fit the schedule.
Paint warranty Written paint warranty on the invoice, with terms in plain English. Often bundled into the service-package paperwork, terms not always shown to you.
Turnaround time Single panel typically 2 to 4 days. Multi-panel and accident jobs quoted with a date up front. Often 1 to 3 weeks queue before work starts.
Transparency Photo log of every stage. You can step into the bay and watch us work on your car. Customer lounge only. You see the car at drop-off and at collection.

The Block Exemption Order (BEO) protects your right to repair or repaint your car at any qualified independent workshop without voiding your manufacturer warranty. Read more.

Our promise

Honest paintwork. No upsell.

Quote before any spray

Every job starts with a panel walk-around, photos and a written quote. You see what we plan to do, and what each line costs, before paint goes on.

Repair before replace, when honest

If a dent can be properly beaten and saved, we tell you. If a panel is too far gone for a quality respray, we say so. Either way, the call is yours with the facts on the table.

Photo log, written paint warranty

Every stage photographed. Paint warranty terms printed on the invoice, in plain English. Useful if you want a second opinion, or if a claim comes up later.

FAQ

Paintjob and body works, your questions answered

How do you match the paint code on my car?

We pull the factory paint code from your VIN plate, then take a spectrophotometer reading on your existing panel to capture how that paint has actually faded over the years in Singapore sun. We mix the tinter blend in-house, spray it onto a test card, and match it in daylight against the panel beside the one we are painting. Only then do we paint the panel. The factory code on its own is rarely enough on a car older than two years.

Can you do a single-panel respray, or do you have to paint the whole car?

Single-panel respray works for most touch-ups, kerb scrapes and small accident damage. We blend into the next panel where needed so the colour transitions cleanly. If three or more adjacent panels are damaged, or the colour is a metallic or pearl that is hard to match, a wider blend or full-side respray is sometimes the better call. We will tell you which gives the cleaner result, and what each costs.

Should you beat a dent or replace the panel?

If the panel metal is not stretched or torn, hammer-and-dolly work usually saves it. If the dent is creased through the panel, or rust has already started behind it, replacement is the right call. We make the call honestly. Beating a panel that should be replaced is cheaper today and a problem six months later. Replacing a panel that could have been beaten is just expensive.

How long does paint warranty last?

Standard paint warranty is 12 months on the work itself, written on the invoice in plain English. We cover paint adhesion, clearcoat integrity and any defect in the work we did. Stone chips, scratches and damage from later events are not covered, which is normal across the industry. Read the invoice terms, ask before you sign, and we will walk you through anything that is not clear.

Will you guarantee the paint match?

Yes. If you can see the panel we sprayed standing apart from the rest of the car in daylight, we will rework it. We test on a card before we spray the panel, and we check the panel in daylight before we polish and deliver, so this is rare. The guarantee is on the invoice.

How long does a paintjob take?

Single-panel respray is typically 2 to 4 working days, including prep, paint, bake and polish. A full-side respray runs 5 to 7 days. A full vehicle repaint with prep done properly runs 10 to 14 days. Accident jobs depend on parts arrival and chassis work needed. We give you a date up front when we quote, and we WhatsApp you if anything changes.

What is the spray booth process?

The car is wheeled into a downdraft spray booth with filtered air so dust and debris stay out of the wet paint. Basecoat is applied in proper coats, then clearcoat over the top. The booth heat-cures the paint so the clearcoat hardens fully before we polish, rather than air-drying on a normal bay floor. Booth and gun are cleaned between every car so there is no colour cross-contamination.

What is paint blending and why does it matter?

Blending is the technique where we feather the new paint into the next panel for a few inches, so the colour transition is gradual rather than a hard line at the panel edge. On a faded car, blending is what stops a freshly painted panel from looking obviously newer than the rest of the car. We blend into the next panel as standard on any single-panel respray where the colour is not a fresh-from-factory match.

How thick should clearcoat be?

Two proper coats of clearcoat, sprayed in a controlled booth, then heat-cured. Too thin and the panel is not protected against UV and stone chips. Too thick and the surface looks orange-peeled and dries unevenly, and you risk runs. Proper coats applied properly is what you are paying for. We do not skip a coat to save 20 minutes.

Do you use OEM panels or aftermarket?

Both, depending on what makes sense for your car. OEM panels are the manufacturer original part, best fit and finish but more expensive. OE-equivalent and quality aftermarket panels are cheaper, fit well on most mainstream models, and are completely fine for a clean respray. On accident jobs going through insurance, the insurer often specifies the panel grade. We tell you what each option costs and lets you decide.

How does insurance interact with bodywork repair?

If you are claiming on insurance, your insurer either nominates a panel shop or accepts an independent workshop you choose. Talk to us before you call the insurer so we can guide you through the claim, the assessment, and the panel-vs-replace decision. We work with most major Singapore insurers. We also handle the paperwork and the assessor visit so you do not have to chase. See our accident claims page for the full process.

How do you decide repair vs total loss on accident damage?

We measure the chassis first, then walk the panels. If the chassis is straight or pullable to factory, almost any panel damage is repairable. If the chassis is bent past tolerance, the cost of a proper repair often passes the value of the car, and the assessor calls total loss. We will tell you our honest read before the assessor arrives, so you know what to expect.

Got a kerb scrape, dent, or panel damage?

Mon-Fri 9am-6:30pm · Sat 9am-1pm · Closed Sun

Book a slot  →    WhatsApp Us
Reviewed by The Right Workshop team

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