Engine & Gearbox · Kaki Bukit · Singapore

Car Engine and Gearbox Singapore,
Engine and Gearbox,
Done Properly.

Engine overhauls, gearbox rebuilds, ECU diagnostics and component repair. We diagnose properly before opening the engine, then quote honestly. The repair you actually need, not a parts cannon.

~10 yrs
In the trade
★ Top-rated
on Google Reviews
3,000+
Cars serviced

Why engine and gearbox matter

Engine and gearbox failures are the most expensive jobs on a Singapore car

Engine and gearbox failures are the most expensive jobs on a Singapore car. Catching the warning signs early saves thousands. Driving on a knock or a slipping gear wrecks parts that were salvageable yesterday.

Engine knocks and ticks are warnings

Most engine failures whisper for weeks before they shout. A new tick at idle, a vibration at 2,500 rpm, oil consumption up by half a litre, all show up before a major fault.

Gearbox slip is rarely the gearbox

Slipping shifts often trace to a worn solenoid, low fluid, or a bad sensor, not a dead box. We diagnose first. A $300 solenoid swap beats a $4,000 rebuild that wasn’t needed.

ECU faults need real diagnosis, not guesswork

Modern engines log fault codes that point to a sensor, a wire, a coil, or a fuel issue. Code reading is step one. Step two is the actual investigation, where most workshops stop.

Heat shortens engine and gearbox life

Singapore traffic and humidity push fluids hard. Old engine oil and old gear oil both break down quicker here. A clean fluid service every interval keeps both running well past 200,000 km.

What we check

A proper engine and gearbox diagnosis, in plain English

Six areas, every visit. Every engine and gearbox diagnosis finishes with a written report so you know exactly what is going on with your drivetrain, and what (if anything) we recommend doing about it.

Engine internals

  • Cylinder compression test on each cylinder
  • Leakdown test to find weak rings, valves or head gasket
  • Oil consumption rate measured against manufacturer spec
  • Valve cover and timing cover seal condition
  • Findings written into your engine report

Gearbox and transmission

  • Fluid colour, smell and metal content inspected
  • Solenoid pack and pressure switch live-data check
  • Shift quality logged at idle, low load and full load
  • Pan drop inspection for clutch material if symptoms warrant
  • CVT belt or DCT clutch wear (where applicable)

ECU and sensors

  • Full fault code read with live data and freeze-frame
  • Crank and cam sensor signal traces on the scope
  • Mass airflow, throttle position and oxygen sensor readings
  • Coil and injector waveform check under load
  • Reset and re-test after any repair

Cooling and fluids

  • Coolant level, condition and pressure test
  • Engine oil level, colour and contamination check
  • Gear oil and ATF level and condition
  • Radiator, hoses and water pump weep inspection
  • Head gasket combustion-gas test if symptoms warrant

Mounts, belts and ancillaries

  • Engine and gearbox mount condition under load
  • Timing belt or chain wear and tensioner state
  • Auxiliary belt, idler and tensioner inspection
  • Alternator, starter and ground point check
  • Driveshaft, propshaft and CV joint inspection (where applicable)

Diagnostic report

  • Test-drive notes at idle, urban load and expressway cruise
  • Photos of anything we flagged
  • Plain-English written summary, not workshop jargon
  • Itemised quote for any repair you may want to follow up with
  • Honest call on rebuild vs replace where it applies

How we differ

The Right Workshop vs an authorised dealer

Both will fix your engine or gearbox. The way the visit goes, and what you walk out with, is not the same. Here is how the two compare on the things that matter when you book.

What you get The Right Workshop Authorised dealer
Diagnosis approach Hands-on diagnosis with a scope, a stethoscope and a manual. We rule things out before recommending parts. Code-reader output, then replace the part the code points to.
Pricing for major repairs Itemised quote on parts and labour. We tell you the difference between OEM, OES and quality aftermarket and let you choose. OEM only, full retail price. Labour billed at dealer hourly rate.
Engine overhaul vs replace We open it, measure clearances, and tell you whether overhaul makes sense or a used engine is wiser. Honest call either way. Often defaults to a remanufactured replacement, even when an overhaul would have done.
Gearbox rebuild vs swap Diagnose the actual failed component first. We rebuild when the case is good and swap when it isn’t. Usually swaps the entire unit, even for a single failed solenoid.
Block Exemption Order BEO means independent engine and gearbox work is fine. We document everything. Warranty stays. Same warranty, paying more for the dealer sticker.
Communication during the job Photos and updates on WhatsApp. You see what we found and what’s needed. No surprises. Service advisor calls once with the verdict. You don’t see the car until pickup.
Used parts when sensible Quality used parts from verified donor cars when new is overkill. We say what’s used and why. New parts only.
Time per repair Booked properly. We don’t accept work we can’t get to that week. Long queue. Engine in for 3 weeks is normal.

The Block Exemption Order (BEO) means engine and gearbox work at an independent workshop does NOT void your manufacturer warranty. As long as we use parts of equivalent quality and document the work, your warranty is intact. Singapore adopted the BEO from EU competition law, and reputable independent workshops have been operating under it for years. Read more.

Our promise

Honest. No upsell.

Diagnose first, repair second

If your gearbox is slipping, we test the fluid, the solenoid pack, and the sensors before talking rebuild. The cheapest fix that solves the problem is the right fix.

No parts cannon

Some workshops swap parts until the symptom goes. We trace faults to the root, replace the part that’s actually broken, and stop.

Same hands every visit

You drop the car off with the technician working on the engine, not a service advisor. We remember which engine, which mileage, which prior repair, every visit.

FAQ

Car engine and gearbox, your questions answered

When does an engine need an overhaul?

Knock, low compression, oil burn, or coolant in oil are flags. We measure cylinder compression, leakdown, and oil burn rate before recommending overhaul. Many “needs overhaul” cars actually need a head gasket or valve seal job.

Can you rebuild an automatic gearbox?

Yes. We rebuild conventional automatics, CVTs and DCTs. Most rebuild jobs come back stronger than the original because we replace soft parts, sensors and the seal pack while it’s open.

What’s the difference between a rebuild and a replacement?

Rebuild keeps your case and crank, replaces wear parts. Replacement swaps in a remanufactured or used unit. Rebuild is often $1,500 to $3,000 cheaper, takes 1 to 2 weeks longer, and uses your matched parts.

Will engine work void my warranty?

No. The Block Exemption Order makes independent engine work valid for warranty as long as we use equivalent parts and document properly. We stamp your service book and keep the parts records on file.

What does an ECU diagnosis cost?

Standard scan is included with any visit. Deep diagnosis (live data, scope traces, leakdown) starts at $80 and is credited toward the repair if you go ahead.

How long does an engine overhaul take?

2 to 3 weeks for most cars. We don’t rush it. A proper overhaul means measuring clearances, replacing seals and gaskets, head re-machining if needed.

Can you work on hybrid or EV drivetrains?

Yes for the conventional engine and transmission side of hybrids. The high-voltage battery and inverter are dealer-level parts. We do the engine, gearbox and 12V system.

Will you tell me if it isn’t worth fixing?

Yes. Some cars cost more to fix than they’re worth. We give you the diagnosis, the repair quote, and a frank read on whether scrap or sale is the better call. No commission either way.

Do you do timing belt or chain replacement?

Yes. Belts at the manufacturer interval (usually 90,000 to 150,000 km). Chains only when stretched, noisy or causing fault codes. We don’t replace chains preventively unless symptoms warrant.

What payment methods do you accept?

PayNow, bank transfer, cash. We don’t take credit card to keep prices clean. Receipts are emailed.

Can I supply my own engine or gearbox parts?

Yes if it’s quality stock and we’ve agreed on it. We quote labour-only and not be responsible for warranty on parts you supply.

What if you open my engine and find more damage than expected?

We stop, photo and quote the additional work, then call you. You decide whether to proceed. Nothing extra is done without sign-off.

Engine knock, slipping shifts, or a check-engine light?

Mon-Fri 9am-6:30pm · Sat 9am-1pm · Closed Sun

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Reviewed by The Right Workshop team

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