Do this first

Check your tyre pressures before you book anything. A front tyre sitting ten or fifteen percent lower than the one opposite will pull a car all by itself. Set them cold, to the figure on the sticker inside your driver's door.

Then find genuinely flat ground. Singapore roads are crowned so rainwater runs to the kerb, and that camber alone will ease a car left. An empty multi-storey carpark deck is a better test than any road.

Look at your steering wheel. If you have to hold it slightly turned to travel straight, the alignment is out. That single observation is worth more than any description of the pull.

Take your hands off the wheel for a second on a flat, empty stretch and the car wanders left. Most drivers assume alignment straight away, and often they are right. But the cheapest cause is also the most common, and it costs nothing to rule out before you pay anybody.

Level 1 · Nothing is wrong

The drift disappears on flat ground

If the car tracks straight across an empty carpark deck and only wanders once you are back on the road, you were feeling road camber rather than a fault, and there is nothing on the car to fix.

Level 2 · Get it measured

Pressures are correct and the pull crept in over months

A gradual pull can be alignment drifting with ordinary wear, or it can be suspension parts going soft, so have the angles measured and the joints checked rather than guessing between the two.

Level 3 · Bring it in

Crooked steering wheel, edge wear, or a pull that arrived overnight

Any of those means something has moved, and the tyre damage that comes with it does not reverse. A car that only pulls while braking belongs here too, because a dragging caliper is a brake problem and worth looking at soon.

Work down the list, cheapest first

A pull has a short list of causes, and they are not equally likely or equally expensive. Going in order saves money, because roughly half the cars that come in for a pull never needed an alignment at all.

  1. Tyre pressures. Free, two minutes, and the single most common cause. Correct them cold and drive the car again before doing anything else.
  2. Road camber. Test on flat ground. If the drift disappears in a carpark but returns on the road, the road was the problem and your car is fine.
  3. Tyre swap test. If pressures are right and it still pulls, swap the two front tyres side to side. If the pull changes direction, a faulty tyre is causing it and no alignment will cure that.
  4. Alignment check. Now it earns its place, especially if the steering wheel is crooked or a tyre is wearing on one edge.
  5. Steering and suspension inspection. Worn tie rods, ball joints or bushes can pull a car, and setting angles on worn parts is money wasted. This gets checked before the adjustment, not after.
  6. Brakes. If the car only pulls while braking, the alignment was never the issue. A sticking caliper drags the car towards it, often with heat or a smell after a long drive.

What a genuine alignment pull looks like

A misaligned car pulls because the wheels are no longer pointing where the car is going. They fight each other, one wins, and the car tracks off-line.

Two clues make it very likely. The first is that crooked steering wheel. The second is your tyres: kneel down and run a hand across the tread from inner edge to outer, and if one edge is noticeably lower than the rest, the wheel has been pointing or leaning wrong for a while.

Timing matters too. A pull that appeared overnight, particularly after hitting something, is alignment until proven otherwise. A pull that crept in over months could be alignment drifting with normal wear, or it could be suspension parts going soft.

The one people get wrong: a pull that only shows up under braking is a brake fault, not a wheel angle. Booking an alignment for it will cost you an hour and change nothing.

The annoying one nobody mentions

There is a fault called tyre conicity, where a tyre is built with a slight internal bias and pulls the car even though every angle on the vehicle is perfect. It is not common, but it is real, and it is the reason a car can come off an alignment rack within specification and still drift.

The swap test settles it. If the pull follows the tyre when you move it to the other side, the tyre is the culprit. That is a warranty conversation with whoever supplied it, not another alignment.

Why we road test before and after

Numbers on a screen do not tell you how a car feels.

A vehicle can sit within specification on every angle and still pull, which is exactly the situation that produces an unhappy customer and a "the alignment did not work" review.

So we drive it. We check pressures, look over the steering and suspension joints for play, measure the angles, adjust what needs adjusting, centre and lock the steering wheel, then take the car out again on a road we know is flat. If it still pulls, the job is not finished and the cause is somewhere else on that list. You get the before-and-after printout either way.

When to come and see us

Come in if the pull survives a proper tyre pressure check, if your steering wheel is crooked when you drive straight, or if the pull arrived suddenly after an impact. Come in sooner if you can see edge wear on a tyre, because that damage does not reverse and every week of driving adds to it.

Tell us what the car is doing and when it started. That description narrows the list faster than any machine does. Details of the alignment service are on our suspension repair page, and if you are not sure whether it is alignment or balancing, our guide on telling the two apart covers it.